Nino Negri Negri produces the full range of wines found in the Valtellina, all of good quality; some mind blowing. The Quadrio Valtellina Superiore 2004 $19.99 (80) offers up an enticing yet racy nose of black olives, mushrooms, watermelon, rose petals and hints of nutmeg underneath. 10% merlot was added to this wine and I'm not sure if it helped the cause here. On the palate this lightweight is a bit disjointed as the rather tart attack leaves little room for the leather, red cherry, and briary blueberry flavors to flourish. You'll want a rich braised meat dish to give the acidic structure something to work on. Up a notch in weight class is the Le Tense Sassella Valtellina Superiore 2004 $32.99 (86) which gives plenty of dense, concentrated aromas of caramel, lilacs, roasted apples, and cinnamon. There's a pleasant earthy, balsamic and hickory component to the nose which is both inviting and warm. The flavorful core of bing cherry and hibiscus tea fruit is dense and tightly wound yet the tannins are soft and supple showing its ability to age and improve for several years. A hint of walnut with pipe tobacco on the finish gives melds nicely with the well integrated silky tannins. The Mazer Inferno Valtellina Superiore 2003 $30.99 (86) is a fruit forward charmer that brings you in with the fresh crushed raspberry, white peach and mint aromas with blackberries lurking in the background. Your palate lights up with a rather ripe attack of strawberry, red apple, and black pepper. Although the attack is short and sweet, the leather flavors and chewy tannins give this wine a rustic charm that will feel at home at a table of grilled offerings. Not afraid to show its largess, the Vigneto Fracia Valtellina Superiore 2004 $38.99 (88) comes from a steeply terraced, small 6.5 hectare vineyard planted at a dense 4,000 vines per acre (i.e. packed in tight so that the vines struggle to stay alive!). The dense, deep, and stingy aromas of blackberry and black tea force you to be patient in allowing the wine to open up. However, the attack is loaded with a gang of black pepper, blackberries, saddle leather, dusty flowers, and crabapples. This wine revs high but will take a year to get in gear and take off. Reminds me of a Vacqueyras given the sense of garrigue. The Sfursat Tradizionale 2004 $45.99 (92) is made from partially dried grapes (think amarone) picked in late September but vinified in mid December. During this "drying period" the grapes lose water, become more concentrated, and gain flavor. The result here is a huge, robust nose of ripe red plums, figs, and currants with a hint of new oak. The attack is big and persistent, loaded with blackberry, currant, and oregano. This wine commands your attention from sip one as the balance is impeccable, tannins silky yet obvious, and flavors impressively persist. A true vino di meditazione, this 15% alcohol stunner delivers all the power with any of the exhaust of an excessively alcoholic wine. Will definitely add to my personal cellar and for the price a relative bargain. Barolo and barbaresco lovers should jump at the opportunity to buy world class nebbbiolo for under $50. Will even be better in 3-4 years. The Sfursat 5 Stelle 2003 $76.99 (94), a masterpiece that must be tasted to be believed. The nose alone is intoxicating. Big, non stop whaffs of roasted black plums, date fruit, and mint hit you first only to be followed by waves of coffee and eucalyptus. On the attack you can't get all the black currant, tar, clove, and black pepper flavors in one take as the chewy tannins have your taste buds and cheeks wrestling for position. Fine example of a hugely structured, massive wine where the tannins and use of oak are so masterfully managed. The powerfully elegant finish goes on for 30-40 seconds and is a fitting way to cap the end to this remarkable wine. One for the cellar is you think you can resist that long as you will be hard pressed to find a better wine for the money anywhere. (Frederick Wildman)