WINE COMMENTARY
BOLGHERI: A PLEASANT REDISCOVERY - April 25, 2008
Italy's "Gold Coast", a stretch of Tuscan coastline that starts near cecina and fades away near Marittima reminds one of parts of the Pacific coastline near Santa Barbara. Cool breezes, a growing number of chic, luxury resorts, and a bevy of new wineries looking to leverage what the likes of Sassicaia built some 30 plus years ago. About five years ago I was in Castagneto Carducci, a quaint little hamlet smack in the middle of the Bolgheri growing zone, blind-tasting several of the local wines. Afterwords, I consolidated my scribble and paired notes with names. Most of the known names did what they were supposed to do: deliver (other known names did not I might add). However, there were a few names, none known to me at the time, that did more than deliver. They inspired expletives, debate, and further investigation. Along with stunning wines from Casa di Terra and Giovanni Chiappini, the wines across the board from Campo alla Sughera were simply gorgeous. From 20 hectares of vineyards, Sughera produces blends based on cabernet sauvignon and franc, merlot, petite verdot and a few white wines dedicated to sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and the local zesty vermentino. A state of the art winery coupled with meticulous winemaking allows Sughera, which is situated a driver and pured 3-iron away from Gaja's Ca' Marcanda estate, to boast some of the best wines every year from the zone. I recently sat down and tasted multiple vintages of their two red blends, Adeo and Arnione, and was not shocked to score all except one of their reds in the 90s. These are generous wines that show outstanding varietal character and subtle power. Fans of California cabernet will find these vibrant fruit-driven stunners right up their alley whilethose prone towards bordeaux will delight in the firm acids and mineral gravitations. Read The Results
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