WINE COMMENTARY
RETHINKING CHIANTI CLASSICO - May 28, 2008
Rethinking Chianti Classico 
Chianti classico has been taking a steady beating over the past 10 years. It’s richer and more voluptuous cousin to the south in Montalcino always seems to steal the headlines. Perched nicely near the beach to the zone’s west, the Bolgheri basks in all her new found international glory. In fairness, perhaps consumers have temporarily abandoned chianti classico until it figures out what it wants to be in the new century. Perhaps too many people still link the name chianti to the millions of gallons of swill that still finds its way into the U.S. under the chianti name. When I started drinking chianti classico in the late 80s, it was a spirited wine, full of bright acid, racy leather and dried flower aromas and demanded that you be eating something fairly rich in order to tame the acids and rusticity. Back then, few of my friends liked it, preferring a smoother profile in merlot or montepulciano. I rather liked it; it was a wine with a purpose. You knew you were drinking a wine that was born for food. Back in the late 80s and early 90s there was a push by some big names in the zone to make softer wines that were more immediately approachable. This basically meant adding merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and whatever else that could broaden the appeal of chianti classico. Whether you prefer the new school chianti classico or lean towards the traditional style, there are excellent examples to be found in both camps. You’ll find the traditional styles brighter with more marked acid which will pair well with food while the new school examples are rounder and are very quaffable alone. As grilling season is upon us, match up your next t-bone with on of the wines below and you’ll understand why it’s time to rethink chianti classico. Traditionalists………. Badia a Coltibuono Badia a Coltibuono RS Chianti Classico 2006 (86) Freshly crushed raspberry, dried peaches, and fresh cut roses form the gorgeous nose of this highly quaffable osteria styled chianti classico. Flavors are bright and true and the juicy acids are ample enough to ask for food but comfortable enough to ride alone. Excellent value and textbook example of a lighter bodied chianti classico. I like this! Will improve thru 2009. (Dalla Terra) Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 2005 (88) Made from estate grown organic grapes, the nose is textbook red cherry, dried apricot, sandalwood, leather, and semi-dried plum while on the palate the black pepper and blueberry wage a beautiful battle with the velvety tannins and racy acids. This is a superb example of a well structured fruit-driven chianti classico without going over the top with new oak or dosing with ripe merlot. $25.00 (Dalla Terra) Castello di Verrazzano Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva 2003 (89)Verrazzano does it again with a wine exploding on the nose with all the iron-rich earth, flint, saddle leather and roasted blackberry flavors you could hope for. The palate stays true to the aromas as the earth and leather flavors dominate the black tea and roasted fig that coat the palate. Thankfully, the wine’s tannic structure has plenty of fruit supporting and it will be 2010 before this wine begins to mature gracefully. Big wine that could haul down and ox! Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico 2005 (89) Persistent gamey, fresh-tilled earth, smoked cherry, and leather aromas collide in the nose while on the palate an intense and focused stream of blackberry, chocolate, rawhide, and mix with delicate hints of vanilla to give this powerhouse classico instant respect at the table. While muscular, it shows exceptional balance and will certainly improve thru 2012 though it would be tempting to let this ride with a grilled bistecca now. This is an excellent textbook old-school chianti classico made from 95% sangiovese with a touch of canaiolo. $25.99 (Palm Bay Int’l) Castello di Volpaia There are wines as good, but no one is making better chianti classico these days than Castello di Volpaia. They just flat out are making traditionally crafted wines with a purity and focus unmatched in the zone. Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 2005 (88) A hideously enticing nose of candied cherry mixed with whispers of sottobosco screams elegance as you’re led into the intense red fruit attack on the palate. Red cherry, cranberry, apple, and pomegranate all collide gracefully and are wrapped in juicy and silky acids that invite food to show all its beauty. This is truly gorgeous highly strung chianti classico that serves as a model for traditionally styled classico that has used modern technology to enhance characteristics of terroir as opposed to altering it. Cheers! $23.00 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 (90) Roasted coffee meets earth, leather, and focused cranberry on the nose. On the palate, the acid is marked but is equally matched by the intense and perfectly mature red and black fruit on the palate. The acidity is checked by the chewy tannins and persistent spine of juicy acid that runs from start to finish. With a steak it would get no better! A sublime 100% sangiovese classic that will certainly improve thru 2012. $34.00 Castello di Volpaia Coltassala Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 (93) Extroverted but contained nose of whole plum, hickory, and dried cherries enveloped the nose but the palate is unmercifully attacked by velvety tannins and mature but not under ripe red fruit that is relentless in its pursuit of the sweet spot of your palate. This is serious chianti classico; as good as it gets, and should serve as an example of what the region is capable of producing with its own local varietals. A perfect nervous system will insure that it will improve thru 2014. Outstanding wine and sublime example of sangiovese! (Wilson Daniels) Melini Melini Chianti Classico I Sassi 2006 (83) Hints of cocoa combine with aromas of rawhide, baked apples, and pipe tobacco. The attack is balanced and bright with textbook flavors of dusty red cherry, dried strawberry, tart blackberry, and dried flowers that are persistent and supported by lively acids. Will saddle up nicely next to a simply prepared pasta dish with red sauce and will improve thru 2010. $17.00 Melini Chianti Classico Riserva Laborel 2003 (85) Inviting aromas of spearmint, mango, and macerated strawberries light up the nose while on the attack there’s a soft landing of roasted apples, chestnuts, beef jerky, and tobacco leaf. Drinking well now, especially with a simply grilled steak, but will improve thru 2010. $23.00 Melini Chianti Classico Riserva La Selvanella 2003 (86) An interesting multi-layered attack of candied cherry, sottobosco, leather, and earth tones dominate the nose while the palate plays host to round raspberries, baked apples, hints of tobacco, and black plums. This is a 100% sangiovese, classically styled chianti classico that reminds me of my college days when I splurged. Well balanced and offering plenty of fruit and stern acids this will offer excellent value on a wine list for those looking for a traditionally styled chianti classico that’s ready to drink. Long and graceful finish. Drink now thru 2010. $31.00 (Frederick Wildman) Rocca delle Macie Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 Ample nose leaps out with spearmint, roasted chestnuts, and stewed black fruits. There’s plenty of fruit that attacks the palate with balance and finesse. With 10% combined merlot and cabernet sauvignon added in this is an excellent effort that will impress on first impression but will also hold steady with solid fare. Will continue improving thru 2012 as this is a tightly wound effort. Hell of a deal at $26.50 Rocca delle Macie Sant’ Alfonso Chianti Classico 2004 (86) Amped nose of macerated strawberries and plums with pepper and leather notes lead into a ripe attack of red fruit that is supported by a slight frame of juicy acids that run through the spine. This is a juicy crowd pleasing 100% sangiovese chianti classico from a warm vintage that will improve thru 2009. $24.50 Rocca delle Macie Fizzano Chianti Classico Riserva 2003 (86) Mature nose of rhubarb takes the lead as this simple leather laden brute (that needs a big grilled pork chop to help tame its rusticity) fills the mouth with chewy tannins and grippy acids. Solid core of fruit and mouth feel pack a punch here but tends towards simple, if not soundly. Will improve thru 2010. (Palm Bay Int’l) Vignamaggio Vignamaggio Terre di Prenzano Chianti Classico 2006 (83) A choc full of violets nose leads to a simple yet approachable wine that is on the light side structurally for chianti classico. This is crafted more in a chianti mode, complete with bright red and black fruit and racy acids and will saddle up nicely with a simple plate of spaghetti with red sauce. Pleasing but rather simple and is ready to drink thru mid 2009. Vignamaggio Gherardino Chianti Classico 2006 (85) An enticing nose of dried flowers, raspberry pastry, and cocoa keep you entertained while the attack is pure, laser-focused cherry and leather. Solid, textbook chianti classico with succulent acids and chewy tannins make this a versatile winner. This is a solid light weight contender that will improve thru 2010. Vignamaggio Mona Lisa Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 (91) Rich inviting nose tends towards a modern style and on the palate the wine speaks volumes. A sublime balance of roasted plum, black raspberry, and cloves meet with juicy acid and chewy tannins to create a textbook chianti classico that should serve as a model for the region. The black tea and currant flavors linger on forever while the acid holds their ground with a fierce tenacity all the while smiling. A fantastic version of well-extracted terroir in chianti classico. Will easily improve thru 2014. (Bedford Wines) New School………… Antinori Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico 2005 (86) Ripe red cherry, currant preserves, and fresh blueberry aromas mix nicely as you’re lead into a fruit-filled jambalaya of blackberries, tar, pipe tobacco, and chocolate. While traditionalists will favor more of the 100% sangiovese chianti classico blends, the 15% merlot used here gives a roundness and seduction that will sure to please while maintaining its food-friendly acidic structure. Will improve thru 2010. $25.00 Antinori Marchese Chianti Classico Riserva 2003 (90)Enticing and ample briary, canned peach, and blueberry extract with licorice and dark chocolate undercurrents go on forever in the nose. But the show really begins and ends on the palate where the blackberry and plum assault is balanced by juicy acids and grippy well-integrated tannins. This is a rich powerhouse ready for substantial fare or meditation! $38.00 Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 2003 (91)Leather, wildflowers, and caramel dominate the rather seductive nose. This is what a “dark and chewy” chianti classico wants to be--tightly wound but showing leathery, gamey fruit and plenty of structural spunk to perform at the table. Classic violets meet black fruit on the palate with a twist of leather and sottobosco. The finish goes on forever and it will improve thru 2010 but is dying to be poured now along side a spit-roasted suckling (not James). Excellent. $45.00 (St.-Michelle Wine Estates) Barone Ricasoli Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico 2003 (88) Highly focused yet beautifully amplified nose of macerated red cherry, rhubarb, and balsam leads into an intense attack of red fruit laden with raspberry notes that carry on for days. The finish is long and luscious with juicy acids that invite you back for another sip. This has a serious yum-yum factor and restaurants should take note of this fruit driven effort with a healthy spine that will take-on serious food while not being heavy handed. This is a very user-friendly effort that is sure to please newcomers to chianti classico. Drink thru 2011. Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico 2001 (89)Brooding crushed raspberry and strawberry aromas with heavy floral notes and hint of roasted coffee bean make for a pleasant mouthwatering bouquet but the texture in mouth is where the action is. The layers of blackberry, clove, and leather meld nicely with the grippy yet velvety tannins that provide excellent feel and invite a nicely charred steak. This is big, bold, and balanced and is a tribute to what sangiovese can do when treated correctly. Long, seductive finish. Nicely done! Will improve thru 2011. (Remy-Cointreau) Nozzole Nozzole La Forra Chianti Classico Riserva 2003 (91) Beautifully rich, exotic, and enticing nose with mushroom, eucalyptus, and stewed cherry supporting the frame of intensely extracted black fruit that invites you into a massively structured yet beautifully balanced wine made in an international style that will certainly win many a fan. This has serious yum factor while still being a huge wine that is suited for big-game dishes. “Mountain fruit” works in the classico zone as this is a serious single vineyard chianti classico whose vines rest at 2700 feet that will improve thru 2012. $45.00 (Kobrand) Principe Corsini Principe Corsini Le Corti Chianti Classico 2005 (85) A subtle nose of cranberry, mint leaves, and apple blossom tempt the nose but the palate is treated to a sweet-tart attack of polished red fruit, led by plums and cranberry, and a rather creamy mouthfeel. The floral notes and velvety grip in the mouth are pleasant and invite one to continue drinking but this is clearly a wine that will show its full plume with a plate of simply prepared pasta pomodoro or with roasted chicken. $21.00 Principe Corsini Don Tommaso Chianti Classico 2005 (87) Dried bramble mixes with new oak and undertones of dark cherries on the nose while the palate gets gang tackled by a boatload of perfectly balanced sottobosco laden blackberry, blueberry, and dark plum fruits being held together by a nicely worn leather belt of black pepper. Impeccable full-throttle wine that will boast at a table full of grilled meats and sharp cheeses. I like it and it will continue improving thru 2011. Well done! $36.00 (Henriot, Inc.) Ruffino Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Santedame 2004 (87) With a combined 15% cabernet sauvignon and merlot added to the blend, Santedame offers a deeply inviting, spicy, and brooding nose of roasted cherry and blackberry showing more extraction that you’d expect. There’s no disappointment in the attack where the cinnamon, blackberry and sottobosco flavors explode on the palate. This is a strong middle weight effort that is fashioned in the newer school of chianti classico which will no doubt find broad appeal among non-traditional chianti classico drinkers. Solid wine that will match well with substantial fare and will improve thru 2010. It would be hard to find any better chianti classico at $17.99 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale 2004 (87) Sottobosco, leather, and dried cherry aromas lurk beneath a seamless black pepper, dried raspberry, and pipe tobacco filled attack that invites sip after sip. While there is ample acid to balance the core of black and red fruit, the mouthfeel is soft and elegant and finishes clean. Well done and will improve thru 2010. $24.00 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Gold 2004 (88) Focused nose broods with currants, fresh leather, and dried lavender. On the palate the creamy attack is supported by ample tar, blackberry preserves, and black pepper notes. While young it still provides plenty of ripe fruit to enjoy but and will improve thru 2011. Silky tannins and long finish give this wine a touch of elegance. $38.00 (Icon Estates Wines) Villa Mangicane I love what these guys are doing with sangiovese. These are big wines that are capable of living a long, full life but are just as approachable for current drinking. One to watch! Villa Mangiacane Chianti Classico 2005 (87) Led by baked apple, watermelon, and red plums that lights up the nose, the wine’s attack is pure velvet in nature while black fruit flavors linger on forever on the finish. This is a juicy mouthful of smoked cherry and tart plums with enough leather and dried flower hints to give it a savage complexity coupled with modern charm. This charmer will continue improving thru 2010. $27.99 Villa Mangiacane Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 (92) Ripe yet focused red cherry, cinnamon, and pomegranate nose with layers of coffee bean and dried flowers lurking underneath. Power meets refinement as the structured black fruit; full of fig, raw beef, and unripe cherry draw to the fore, coats the palate. This is a gutsy wine that will elbow its way politely to the head of the table offering to take-on any and all food pairings that are ready to do battle. This is a prince of a wine that will improve thru 2012. A supremely well done sexy beast! (Palm Bay Int’l)
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