WINE COMMENTARY
SUMMER WHITES TO BEAT THE HEAT - June 10, 2008
Must-Have Spring & Summer Whites Whether you believe in global warming or not, it gets hot where I live in San Diego and Atlanta. Even though it’s two different kinds of heat you can bet that May through August can bring some discomfort. So when it’s time to pour warm weather whites I look first and foremost for “drinkability”; an easy drinking and versatile wine that invites you to have more than one glass and food considerations are secondary. The pearl of the Piedmont is found in gavi, the crisp, minerally, bright white wine made from the local cortese grape. The La Scolca Gavi di Gavi 2006 gives faint hints of aspirin, lime blossoms, and dry sand on the nose while on the palate flavors of white peaches, melon, and hints of mint leaf dance merrily on the palate. This is a wonderfully spunky quaffer that would kill to be nestled up against a plate of cold crustacean. Ready to drink now thru 2009. (87) The single vineyard effort, the La Scolca Rovereto di Gavi Superiore Black Label 2006 is hard to beat but easy to like. It offers up a wonderful nose of fresh picked kaffir lime leaves, wet stones, and hints of honeysuckle. It boasts a wonderfully elegant mouthfeel, showing perfect balance and flavors of unripe pear, green apple, and flinty aspirin linger on. This is a middle weight contender that screams elegance and is a perfect match wine to match up with cream based pastas or lobster thermidor. Lovely now, it will drink well thru 2011. (89) The Marchesi di Barolo Gavi Le Lune 2006 also offers an enticing nose of dried flowers, minerals, and fresh mountain air. Cantaloupe meets lime blossom and on the palate (which shows some weight) which lingers on in a long delicate finish. A wine that shows excellent balance, it’s ready to drink now thru 2009. (86) If it’s heavyweight flavors you want without the championship prices you must take a look at Torre Gaia’s offerings from Italy’s southern region of Campagna. You will find no better value in Campagna than Torre Gaia’s full-flavored wines that will find many a fan due to their ripeness, juicy qualities, and affordability. The Torre Gaia Falanghina 2006 gives off huge aromas of dried apricots, canned peaches, and honeysuckles. If it didn’t have the loads of peach extract, lemon cream pie, and strawberry flavors on the palate supported by a beautiful spine of juicy acid so much I would swear the nose was that of a dessert wine. Serious yum factor here, this should be by-the-glass at restaurants looking to offer something different of quality! (88) The Torre Gaia Fiano 2006 has an equally as enticing nose, full of peach nectar, sweet carrots, nutmeg, and fresh flowers. On the palate there is a cascade of ripe stone fruit that finishes with thirst quenching acids and excellent mouthfeel. Delicious wine that drinks well now but will improve thru 2010. (88) The Torre Gaia Greco 2006 offers a saturated nose of butterscotch, honey, and butter, but on the palate livens up with brighter flavors of lychees, limes, nectarines, and almonds. This is a complex thriller that is sure to confuse before it pleases. Well done this drinks well now and will improve thru 2009. (87) The ultimate in hot weather drinking may be the Sella & Mosca Vermentino di Sardegna La Cala 2007. The aromas bring to mind ocean breezes including a pleasant briny quality to match the floral and mineral laden nose. On the palate, the taste buds are jump started by the mineral, green apple, and white pepper flavors that coast the palate. This is a simple crowd pleasing light bodied effort that could court food but is just as pleasing as an aperitif. Well done it will improve thru 2009. (86) Another vermentino but from Tuscany is the more serious and structured Rocca delle Macie Occhio a Vento Vermentino di Toscana 2007. A subtle nose of minerals and dried flowers is all the wine will give in its youth, but on the palate the focused flavors of brined apples, honeysuckle and pears are matched by crisp and juicy acids. A wonderful wine to match up with seafood pasta dishes this will improve thru 2009. (85) If you’re looking for something off the beaten track then I urge you to try the Re’ Manfredi Basilicata Bianco IGT 2006. A blend of equal parts muller thurgau and traminer, it offers an exotic, inviting and tropical nose of pears, apples, and bananas is quickly checked by a full flavored palate attack of ripe peaches, pears, passionfruit, and blood orange juice. This is a juicy wine that will find fans among those that enjoy fruity, ripe whites. (85) And how can you think summer whites without including America’s favorite Italian white wine, pinot grigio. The Santi Pinot Grigio Sortesele 2007 is pure dried lavender, wet stones, and cherry skins on the nose, but on the palate there is a crisp attack of acid laden yellow apples and leesy pear flavors that pucker the taste buds. Drinks well now but will improve thru 2009. (84) $15.00. Few provide better value than the $17.00 pinot grigio from Zemmer. Zemmer’s La Lot Pinot Grigio 2007, sporting an openly fruity nose (reflecting the warmer terrain of the sun soaked mountain range that borders the northeastern mountains of Italy), provides an immediately appealing nose of candied apples, honey, and peas. Textbook flavors of lush green apples and honeysuckle back up the splendid aromas in the mouth. Excellent value to buy by the case. This is a well made, versatile medium bodied white made for summer swilling. Barone Pizzini Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2007 Long wet stone and crisp mountain air nose are enticing but it’s the white peach extract meeting melon and flint supporting roles that impress you on the palate. Beautifully balanced and inviting a platter of grilled shellfish. Light herb and dried flower undertones on finish. Could actually age showing strong nervous system but who wants to wait. Excellent. $19.00 (88) (Vignaioli Selections) The Santi Soave Classico Monteforte 2006 is perhaps my favorite of all the summer swiller candidates. Its crisp dry finish and attack full of fruit will easily pair up with a carnitas burrito or fried catfish. Simple, yet elegant and clean, you will find all the floral aromas you want to entice on the nose and ample layers of ripe pear, honeysuckle, and dried cherries on the palate. Excellent value at $13.99 this is my choice for affordable summer swillin’! (87) .
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