WINE COMMENTARY
WHEN SPENDING $20 FOR PINOT GRIGIO….. - August 13, 2008
When Spending $20 For Pinot Grigio….. Please drink a good one. ‘Why so much pinot grigio and so little tocai and pinot bianco?’ was the constant question I received from growers in Italy 14 years ago when I started importing wine into the U.S. They’d known for centuries what I learned early on in my career; that pinot grigio is probably the least interesting wine they make. But, in the U.S., pinot grigio somehow filled the void for the crowd tired of oaky, buttery chardonnay that wanted a more refreshing, chic, quaffable style of white wine. However, the void was and still is filled in large part with thin and expressionless wines with hip names that are easy on the wallet. Some wineries have even managed to bottle up America’s favorite import in cartoonish bottles with colored glass for your added drinking pleasure. For most, pinot grigio has now been relegated to the “glass of wine by the pool” drinker’s list. People climbed up the totem pole of chardonnay after finally realizing that there’s more to chardonnay than Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve. However, most slide right back down (and bump their heads) when it’s time to buy and drink pinot grigio. A shame indeed. If you’re convinced that pinot grigio reaches its pinnacle with Santa Margherita, I implore you to pick up one of the wines below and see what you’ve been missing. These are complete wines that are not only a pleasure to sip by the pool but can stand up to substantial fare and have depth and flavors equal to any fine whites from around the globe. You’ll quickly find that you’ve either been paying for hype or wasting your money; neither of which is ‘hot’ unless you’re chatting with Paris Hilton. Abbazia di Novacella Pinot Grigio Alto Adige 2007 $25 (90/100pts) Always one of my favorite white wines, it offers a mouthful without being tiring or overbearing. It’s an inviting effort that shows a high-toned elegance seldom found in pinot grigio from either Friuli or Alto Adige. Its amplified nose of crushed red and green apples leads to bursts of pears, white plums, and hints of white pepper on the palate. One of the classiest pinot grigio on the market, bar none! Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Benefizium Porer Alto Adige 2006 $22.00 (89/100pts) Subtle yet elegant nose of green pear and hay gives way to a mouthful of nectarines, white plums, and citrus flavors that are impeccably woven together through a bright stream of acid. Consistently a fine example of pinot grigio, its hint of creaminess on the mid-palate gives this a rare level of finesse. Borgo Convento Isonzo del Friuli Pinot Grigio 2006 $15.00 (89/100pts) A wispy and subtle lemon cream pie nose makes you wonder where you’re headed but one sip brings you into an expanse of creamy fruit, marked by macerated yellow apples and pears. Although a bit tightly wound, it’s nothing a serving or two of herb roasted chicken wouldn’t cure. Young but so complete you’ll want to drink it now. Excellent wine and getting a lot for your money! Luisa Pinot Grigio Isonzo del Friuli 2007 $20.00 (90/100pts) Bright musk and lime blossom nose. Creamy mouthfeel with solid white pit-fruit through core. Excellent balance and sparky acidity but flavors are perfectly round and full. Power meets fresh and creamy. Serious juice and a fine expression of pinot grigio.
|
