It’s refreshing to find a winemaker in Barolo who doesn’t spend a lot of time figuring out whether to make wines in the traditional, “old-school” method, where baroli tend towards tannic and introverted in their youth, or adopt the modernist approach which aims to create baroli more approachable in their youth and letting fruit (and frequently new oak) take center stage. Whether by design or by chance, Sergio Germano’s wines fall squarely in the middle stylistically, crafting wines with exceptional clarity and fineness. All of Germano’s wines are precisely made and extremely well-focused (as I would describe Gaja’s wines for example) yet articulate outstanding character. Germano’s whites and reds speak to fruit grown to and picked at perfection and then handled carefully but without adding smoke and mirrors to make the wine sing. His nebbiolo based reds are intensely Albesi; screaming of the limestone dirt where his fruit grows. His chardonnay is immediate proof that Sergio knows his craft and his vines as well as any winemaker in the zone. Germano’s newly released 2007 baroli from the historic Cerretta and Prapo’ vineyards, known for giving quite tannic and aggressive wines when young, are so engaging now it’s as if he’s toying with the elements. Sergio Germano’s wines, both reds and whites, prove it’s still possible to walk softly while carrying a big stick in Barolo.
My tasting notes from wines tasted on February 6, 2012 in Los Angeles.
Alta Langa 2008 Brut Metodo Classico Spumante Amplified but linear bright peachy nose. Clean, light mint/herb with very slight yeast notes. Highly focused and long, fine and wickedly long finish on palate. Sweet tart in middle grabs the cheeks lovingly. Orange blossom flavors in the middle and finish. Delicious yet serious wine with outstanding clarity. Will be interesting to see how this ages but I’d gladly pour it now solo or riding with food. From 80% pinot noir and 20% used barrel fermented chardonnay. The first Alta Langa I’ve tasted and if this is any indication of what other growers are making, we’re in for a real treat. A- ($50)
Chardonnay Langhe 2010 DOC Pear notes on nose with some green apple showing through. Muted and clean and not expressing obvious malo. Chewy on the palate, a bit leesy with restrained unripe pear fruit but solid texture and acid. Good balance and made for food. Gives enough on nose and in mouth to entice but restrained enough to bring you back for more looks. Solid finish. A very pure wine. B+ ($25)
Nascetta Langhe 2010 DOC Bianco Muted green dew melon nose with hints of petrol. Gripping yet acids are chewy and fun. Lemon and key lime flavors in the mouth with notes of lemongrass. Somewhat austere finish. Made from 8 year old vines and the 3rd vintage produced. Nascetta is a native Piedmontese varietal that a few producers are trying to revive. Will be interesting to see where this wines goes as the vines mature. B- ($35)
Riesling “Herzu” 2010 Langhe Bianco Wow. Petrol aromas meet fresh flowers on the nose. Fine and elegant nose; reserved yet very enticing. Solid fruit attack of ripe pear and orange, tangerine. Decent acid and medium long finish, well balanced, with plenty of structure. Chewy and strong spine. Put with Thai food. Well done and well defined. A- ($40)
Barbera d’Alba “Vigne della Madre” 2008 Boatload of black fruit (blackberry and roasted plum) overpower hints of V.A. on the nose. Bubble gum aromas combine with baking spice and smoked plums. Chewy and solid in the mouth. Cocoa meets ripe blackberry and black pepper flavors. Tannins are mellow. A solid worker but few high notes. Would like to have tasted a year ago. B ($40)
Dolcetto d’Alba 2008 Pra di Po’ Huge, classic blueberry and black raspberry nose with baking spice and pink bubble gum hints. Seemingly high acid dolcetto with tart sensations combining with sottobosco and wild blueberry and dried flowers on palate. Would prefer younger and showing some fatigue. Workable but presents relatively flat. Ready to go. B- ($25)
Langhe Nebbiolo 2010 Sweet retrained nose of dusty red cherry and strawberry. Persistent aromas. Bright but mature red fruit on attack. Watermelon, cherry taffy with hints of hibiscus tea and white pepper flavors. Elegant, shows finesse but solid nebbiolo structure. Very fine tannins. Serious nebbiolo for a starter. Good for next 2-3 years. B/B+ ($32)
Barolo Serralunga 2007 Concentrated red cherry aromas combine with sassafras, nutmeg and cinnamon on the nose. Very fine tannins surround the palate on the attack. Perfectly ripened red berryfruit combined with Ceylon black tea. Very pretty for Serralunga to be so young. Excellent example of young approachable Serralunga and barolo in general. Extraordinary tannin management. B+ ($80)
Barolo Cerretta Cru 2007 Wow. Hugely fruity nose with tons of black berryfruit and hints of classic tar and rose petals. Very rich and penetrating nose and long. Wicked focus on the attack. Blackberry and sweet leather coat the palate. Chewy tannins and medium weight but packs all focus right down the middle. Linear, complex, young, and will age gorgeously. Shows restraint but lots lurking underneath. Classic single vineyard wine woven to perfection like a fine suit. Give it 3-5 years to start boasting. A ($100)
Barolo Prapo’ Cru 2007 Bright and open black cherry nose. Cracked black pepper aromas. Boatload of black fruit backed by solid chewy tannin. Somewhat straightforward yet perfectly ripened chewy tannins. Will come around sooner than the Cerretta but shows remarkable balance for it’s age. Tempting not to enjoy now but will easily go a few in the cellar before showing more and displaying what’s under the hood. Impeccable wine and quite approachable. A- ($100)
