Nebbiolo: A Summer Lover and a Fighter

San Diegans got hit with a heat wave a few weeks ago.  Temperatures sky-rocketed to the low 80s, causing people to sneak out of work early, blast the air The Antagonistconditioner in their cars and head towards the beach.  Despite the sweltering heat (LOL) I remained steadfast in my plan of making ossobucco to celebrate the opening of several bottles of barolo and barbaresco I was becoming overtly impatient to taste.   The day before the dinner I had already fought past the boxes of Capri Sun Roarin Waters and the toaster we never use to pull the wines from the short-term cellar racks and put them in the dining room to settle.  Two days prior I spent an entire morning driving all over San Diego looking for veal shanks.  Ironically, you can find 17 different varieties of vegetarian meatloaf but try finding part of a cow’s leg and you may need to rent a bloodhound.  Finally I settled on some monster, cut-to-order beef shanks (photo right) from a well-equipped market in City Heights, San Diego’s cultural epicenter. I seasoned these babies, browned them, and dropped them into a hot tub of stock, left over barbera, crushed tomatoes, and enough garlic and other aromatics to fuel a mule, and was determined to forget about them for the next 6 hours.  After all, I had some nebbiolo to attend to.

Paolo Monti is a nebbiolo grower whose wines I have very little experience tasting.  This will change!  Monti farms 25 acres of vineyards, planted primarily to nebbiolo and barbera,  all within the commune of Monforte d’Alba.  The fruit for Monti’s single vineyard Nebbiolo d’Alba comes from a remote two-acre plot that has been farmed completely organically for 8 years with the intention of proposing the site for organic certification in a few years.  The Nebbiolo d’Alba 2007 could easily pass for a lighter style of barolo or barbaresaco in a blind tasting, showing all the tea and earth aromas one would expect.  I also tasted several wines from Ceretto, whose wines I have always found to be correctly made, typical of their zone, and traditionally styled.  Ceretto’s red wines are not flashy but they do command your attention and give you a true sense of what a growing area will allow.  At the table they most certainly excel, allowing their charming rusticity to effortlessly grapple with the elements on the table.

At the end of the day, all of the nebbioli fought bravely against the mighty shanks that took 7 hours to reach fall-off-the-bone nirvana.  Ceretto’s Barolo Brunate was a show stopper and almost overshadowed the shanks with it’s laser like focus in the mouth yet ample and floral aromas.  Even Monti’s nebbiolo d’alba, which will become my go-to summer nebbiolo, had no trouble holding its own although it made for better pre-meal sipping with crostini.  Monti’s Bussia bottling was hideously seductive and clearly one to seek out and cellar for 4-5 years.

Monti Nebbiolo d’Alba 2007

Red zinger tea meets cranberry and white pepper notes on the nose and then subtle dried cherry aromas start to sprout.  Seeringly penetrating flavors of white peach, red apple and perfectly extracted wild cherry blaze over the toungue and show all the stuffing you want.  Excellent balance and the tannins are perfectly managed.  Could easily pass for Barolo in a blind tasting.  Excellent!  91/100 Buy Here>

Monti Barolo 2005

Big time black cherry and herbal cola aromas persistently attack the nose and a solid wave of dusty but sweet red plum and mega doses of black pepper flavors combines on the palate to deliver a well balanced and picture perfect effort.  A long spicy finish will seemless tannins shows me this will be a humdinger in 5-8 years.  Well done.  Watermelon, cherry, and roses on the palate.  92/100 Buy Here>

Monti Barolo Bussia 2005

An opulent yet focused nose of cranberry and tar hints at greatness but it’s all business in the mouth.  A laser guided missile of red apple, tobacco, and rose peta il extract shoot through the mouth leaving a long trail the whole way through.  Floral in style you think elegance until the underlying power of Monforte shows you what it’s all about.  Stunningly complex for a young nebbiolo this will be great in a few years.  Long finish that is just begging for ossobucco to challenge it.  94/100 Buy Here>

Ceretto Barolo Zonchera 2005

Gorgeous nose of rhubarb, fresh peach, dried apricots, and strawberry taffy are intoxicating enough.   On the palate it’s the black pepper and currant flavors that do battle with the chewy tannins from start to finish.  This is classic barolo that shows the rough hewn qualities of nebbiolo in the mouth and the exqusite and graceful aromas on the nose.  I like it!  88/100 Buy Here>

Ceretto Barbaresco Bernadot 2006

An inviting and relatively ripe nose of dried flowers combines with red tea and cranberry aromas.  Huge attack on the mouth with chocolate, dried mushroom, and black tea playing with black currant and white pepper flavors.  This is a whopper that proudly shows its largesse while not loosing hints at finesse.  Well done!  92/100

Cereto Barbaresco Asij 2005

Dusty red cherry nose combines with licorice notes while on the mouth the tannins get a little sharp and attack the densely wound red fruit and dried flower flavors that plays underneath.  This will need time to mellow if it’s going to shower more charm but will hold its own at the table.  88/100

Ceretto Barolo Brunate 2005

Classic brunate nose showing you all the floral, white peach, raspberry, and white pepper notes you can ask for combine well with underlying tart cherry aromas.  Power is the first word that comes to mind when you taste this blackberry and hickory infused blockbuster that boast sweet tannins and a firm spine.  Impeccabley put together a few years in the cellar will bring this into its full glory putting the densly wound black fruit and earthy flavors on front stage.  Fantastic wine!  93/100

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Cavalli's Tenuta Degli Dei: Substance Over Style

Tommaso Cavalli in the Vineyard

Who walks into Joe’s Stone Crabs and orders the t-bone?  It just isn’t done.  Not by the sane anyway.  But it’s precisely what Tommaso Cavalli, owner and director at Tenuta degli Dei, did when he decided to plant cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and petit verdot smack in the middle of what is arguably Chianti Classico’s finest growing area for sangiovese, Panzano.  To paraphrase the amiable Cavalli, who grew up on this land purchased by his iconic father Roberto Cavalli 30 years ago, ” I wanted to make something different; something that stood out from the crowd.  We’re surrounded on all sides by outstanding Chianti Classico aziende so this was an opportunity to make a mark in another way.”  It’s not a stretch to say that it would have been fairly easy to make excellent chianti classico given the vineyards Cavalli farms.  Even with his choice to plant traditional Bordeaux varietals, Cavalli could have taken the easy route and crafted a wine that was stylish, easy, and obvious.  However, with the help of Carlo Ferrini, whom Cavalli met 12 years ago when he was contemplating a move towards the grape, he has transformed 3.5 hectares in Panzano into ground central for mineral rich, bright, beautifully structured wines that only serve to prove that the land in Panzano will yield exceptional fruit if handled with care and respect, regardless of varietal.

The namesake wine, Cavalli, a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 25% cabernet franc, and 15% petit verdot is an exercise in refined power.  The 2007 vintage of Cavalli had at least 30% merlot in the blend and made for a strong effort that easily merited 88/100 points.  But in Cavalli fashion, never wanting to get too comfortable with a particular style, Tomasso Cavalli and Carlo Ferrini decided to drop the merlot all together for the 2008 release.  Trying to get to the bottom of why they cut the merlot from the blend, I sensed that it was because Tommaso felt the merlot “tarted up” the final blend too much and took away a higher level of complexity that was achievable without the merlot dosage.  A gutsy call indeed, as the merlot lent a lush, immediate appeal to the 2007 Cavalli.  However, upon tasting the 2008 it was a risk well worth taking.  The 2008 Tenuta degli Dei Cavalli  is a brooding beauty that gives you layer on top of layer of densely wound sottobosco, tobacco, and roasted black plum aromas on the nose.  The black pepper and balsam notes that delight the palate demonstrate complexity well beyond the seven year-old vines’ years while you are only left to marvel at what the wine will turn into in a few years and in future years to come as the vineyards mature.  The wine’s 18 month slumber in oak is absorbed seamlessly into the wine’s depths and the finish is only highlighted by the trademark Panzano freshness that instills itself in all wines grown in its vineyards.  The wine is a treat and one to put down for 2-3 years to let it unwind as gracefully as it was seemingly put together.     90/100

Cavalli's Merlot

So what happened to the merlot that was pimped from the benchmark blend?  At such a small estate nothing is wasted and the merlot went into a separate bottling named Le Redini (which translates to “horse reins”).  I’ll be the first to admit that if I hear merlot and Panzano in the same breath, I’m rolling my eyes.  But, it works and works big here.  The Tenuta degli Dei Le Redini 2008 isn’t big, it’s a middle weight, well-framed wine.  But it’s merlot with a freshness and brightness, and a mineral streak that runs from start to finish, that is rare to find anywhere in Italy.  This is not merlot fashioned after merlot being made in Bolgheri, Alto Adige, Sicily, or even other parts of Tuscany.  This is Panzano merlot, a wine that boasts its pedigree from the moment your nose is treated to chocolate notes that meet ripe strawberry and baking spices until the finish where black pepper and red cherry intertwine with cranberry whispers.  90/100    The Le Redini’s nervous system, its spine, is impeccable-so sure footed it almost dares you to match it up with a bistecca alla fiorentinawhile at the same time imploring you to enjoy it solo on a sunny afternoon on the porch.  This is Panzano boasting and strutting while still allowing the wine to say, “Yes, but I’m merlot with a touch of Alicante”.

There’s no question that with vines under a decade old, Cavalli’s wines will only continue to get better.  Under Tomasso Cavalli’s direction the blends will probably change from year to year depending on weather conditions and the quality of fruit that comes in.  What is sure however, is that the maniacal approach to fruit selection and wine handling will never be compromised and that Cavalli and Panzano will walk hand in hand as easily as the horses around the paddock that grace the Cavalli estate.

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Brunello di Montalcino 2006: Top Notch But Let's Not Get Carried Away

The 2006 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino provided a bounty of very good to excellent wines that above all, show balance and typicity with underlying power.  These are most certainly wines to seek out, buy, and begin drinking as well as to put away.  While few wines scored off the charts (Idon’t believe the inconsistent weather allowed for it) the majority were solid and balanced brunello showing classic sangiovese dark cherry flavors and elegantly chewy textures.

The Consorzio di Brunello di Montalcino rated the vintage 5 stars out of a possible 5.  I would suggest it was a 4-star vintage out of respect for recent vintages such as 2001.  James Suckling, formerly of the Wine Spectator, scored over one hundred 2006 brunellos 91 points or above (out of a possible 100 points), suggesting once and for all that life on Mars does exist.  The 2006 vintage should be kept in perspective for what it is–a very good vintage that provided winemakers an opportunity to make classic wines that are both age-worthy and approachable in their youth.

Below are my tasting notes in the order they are being blind tasted on February 18th and 19th 2011.

Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2006      84/100 Notes of earth and mushroom peek through the red cherry aromas that work to show themselves.  The palate shows strained flavors of dusty red cherry and slightly dried wood.  The wine’s nervous system is fine but it fails to show anything more interesting than standard sangiovese fare.

Piancornello Brunello di Montalcino  2006     87/100 Big black cherry and earth-driven aromas have no problem jumping from the glass to show off.  Baking spice and a column of dense blackberry flavors charge through the palate with serious focus and finish by offering rolling waves of perfectly ripe tannins.  Will especially find favor at the table where a roast chicken would make fine company.

Podere Brizio-Roberto Bellini Brunello di Montalcino 2006         85/100 Aromas of baked red apple and sottobosco shoot straight here on the nose.  It’s all red cherry and notes of blueberry flavors that toss the tongue from side to side on this middleweight effort.  Solid, concentrated and compact wine that will need another 2-3 years to show if anything more interesting lies underneath.

Podere La Vigna Brunello di Montalcino 2006     86/100 Charcoal and pencil lead combine with black cherry on the nose showing nice complexity.  Big leather and blackberry combine on the palate giving this plenty of heft to do battle with the tannins that lurk like Cassius in the background.  A heavyweight brunello that will ask for a seat at the table to tame its hulking personality.  Color already showing some early signs of aging.

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino 2006          84/100 Simple but charming vanilla and dark cherry load the nose.  Tight red cherry flavors get caught up in a rather intense web of tannin on the attack and has to work extra hard to try and show balance and charm.

Canalicchio-Franco Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2006      86/100 A very persistent and spicy nose dominated by cinnamon and red cherry that gives you a wink of leather on the way out.  On the palate there’s a deep red cherry and unripe strawberry attack that shows outstanding and even extraction and a acidic vibrancy that rises to meet the all the fruit and fine tannins this wine can offer.  Impeccably balanced and quite elegant this is a streamlined and compact brunello.

Mocali Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
A sexy nose of raw red meat, mushrooms, worn leather, and wild black cherry aromas leap from the glass.  Focused red flavors, led by red cherry and strawberry, lead the attack and show favor with the fine tannins that support the wine from launch to finish.  A solid example of traditionally styled brunello di montalcino that will age 6-10 years gracefully.

Marchesato degli Aleramici Brunello di Montalcino 2006      86/100
A slightly disjointed yet persistent nose combines strawberry and red currant aromas.  Concentrated tart black cherry lingers long and proud on the palate.  A graceful brunello that shows balance and clarity with a goodbye wink of charm.
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino 2006       87/100 Super concentrated aromas of black cherry, watermelon, and pomegranate entice for sure on the nose.  And the flavors follow seamlessly on the palate where chewy, fine tannins usher in the cherry and mild sottobosco flavors on the palate.  I like the concentration here if rather simple but will show more personality at the table.

Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino 2006      85/100
An open and mildly complex nose displays cocoa and black cherry with whispers of leather.  On the palate the red fruit base struggles with the somewhat aggressive tannins that show hand over the fruit.  The wine needs to loosen a bit before it’s able to prove itself as a comer.

La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino 2006     85/100
Ripe strawberry and red currant aromas make themselves known on the nose and the red cherry flavors get a bit muddled by the firm but fair tannins that wrestle with the wine’s spine.  Solid wine if a bit standard and simple.

La Palazzetta Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
Deep nose of black cherry, currant, and balsam shows immediate charm and finesse.  The attack here is blackberry and sottobosco sweet, focused, and balanced and is a solid example of the charming fruit yet underlying power the vintage is capable of achieving.  This is a brunello that bears a closer look over time as its stuffing has been very well developed.  Bravo!
La Magia Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
Fresh cut wood, black pepper, and and penetrating aromas of red and black cherry show focus and depth.  Cocoa, leather, and chocolate easily overthrow the well developed nervous system that has this wine throwing solid jabs and hooks from the initial attack clear through until the finish.  A wine that won’t shy from the table prepped with braised wild boar or the safekeeping of the cellar.  An example of a muscularly crafted brunello.

La Campana Brunello di Montalcino 2006    90/100
Jammy peach, mushroom, loaded black pepper, and and macerated black cherry aromas give this a sexy nose.  A boatload of pit fruit tones combine with perfectly ripened cherry and mild leather notes to make for a stellar performance in the mouth.  Here we’re being treated to plenty of terroir and winemaking style without losing typicity.

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2006     85/100
Dusty rose and leather combine on the stingy nose.  A tightly wound attack gives you only a glance into the grippy cherry and tobacco notes that swarm the palate.  Rather tannic and closed.

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 2006      89/100
Glycerin and petrol notes mix with sottobosco and black cherry on the nose.  The excitement carries through on the palate where a mouthcoating wave of hints of new oak, saddle leather, cream soda, and well-ripened black cherry are not shy about making a statement and keeping the chewy tannins at bay.  This is sure to please lovers of traditionally styled brunello di montalcino.  Well done indeed.

La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2006     89/100
An ample nose of spearmint, cracked black pepper, anise, and ripe red apples provide the nose.  A seamless and creamy attack of red and black cherry, while simple, is deadly focused and long.  Well integrated tannins are supported nicely and the acids are tame and balanced making this a fine effort for aging or a place at the table with grilled meats.

La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
Slight suggestions of tobacco, spearmint, sottobosco, leather, and blackberry undertones play the  parts in this quite complex nose.  A traditionally styled wine, you’re offered well ripened flavors of dried flowers and red and blackberry fruits that clearly fight to keep pace with the mildly tannic grip in which the brunello is wrapped.  Will find more favor at the table than in the cellar but a nice wine overall.

Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
Earth tones combine with obvious cherry notes on the nose.  Excellent concentration of sour red cherry and tart raspberry flavors on the attack mix well with the known acids and chewy tannins that play in the background.  A simple but solid effort that will most certainly show more in 2-3 years.

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2006     85/100
A rather closed nose makes it hard to break into this nut but whispers of mushroom and dusty ripe apple begin to peek in.  The attack is focused and tight and we’ll need some time here to show what’s really happening as right now we’re being a one-dimensional look into sound brunello.

Gianni Brunelli-Le Chiuse di Sotto     90/100
An intoxicating nose of ripe apples, mushroom, black cherry, and cream soda is sure to please.  Solid attack of black pepper leads the charge as reinforcements of black pepper and pencil lead notes follow through on the finish.  A complex, middle weight chewy beast that will most certainly steal the show at the table or sleep peacefully for 6-8 years before being able to brag even louder. A brunello with plenty of personality to spare.

Il Colle Brunello di Montalcino 2006     89/100
Ample notes of sottobosco and leather lead the way on the nose.  In the mouth there’s a sweet attack of black pepper combined with ripe red cherry that dance the salsa on the tongue from middle to end.  Quite an expressive wine, this will give traditional brunello di montalcino drinkers something to chew on.

Il Paradiso di Manfredi Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
A rather austere nose of wet sottobosco and rotted fruit (in a good way of course) leads to a solid attack of ripe red  cherry and cola flavors that finish wrapped tightly in a well integrated tannic cloak.  A traditional style of brunello that is clearly waiting 2-3 years in order to show the complexity that shyly lurks underneath.  Approachable now but still slightly disjointed.

Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 2006     85/100
A traditional nose of leather, red and black cherry, and sottobosco will most certainly remind of classic brunello while on the palate it’s more of the same only the tannins are making themselves pronounced and in no hurry to back off.

Ciacci Piccolimini Brunello di Montalcino 2006     90/100
A wildly ripe nose of red current, prune, and mushroom brings an exotica of aromas.  On the palate there are profound levels of extracted red fruit that seem to linger for minutes.  This is a seriously crafted wine that shows layers of depth and concentration that command your respect immediately.  There is absolutely no restraint to this wine and a hint of alcohol shows up on the finish but there’s more than enough acid and chewy, finely tuned tannins to keep it from getting out of hand.  A heavyweight beast of a wine, fans of brunello will lap this up.

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2006     86/100
Raspberry and restrained black cherry notes on the nose coupled with a fair amount of sottobosco.  Firm and focused on the palate the dark cherry and peipe tobacco flavors are carefully wound in a lightly tannic grip that will ask for a seat at the dinner table to help this make nice and show a bella figura.

Col D’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2006      85/100
Lightly herbal and medicinal notes on the nose dominate while the red fruit notes play only a supporting role.  Solid construction in the mouth, the brunello’s nervous system is more than adequate the keep the red fruit in check.  A simple wine that will play better with grilled meats than riding solo because of the stubborn hard tannins that refuse to part quickly.                                                                                                                                                                             

CollematoniBrunello di Montalcino 2006      86/100
Elegant and inviting nose of dark cherry and cola make nice on the nose.  There seems to be a sweet, new oak component on the palate’s attack that seems just a bit out of place.  Wondering if the winemaker had thoughts of going new world but struggled to maintain a traditional style.  Anyway, a solid red fruit core keeps this wine in the lanes.

Citille di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2006     84/100
Muted nose wants to introduce underlying black fruit but on the attack the tannins steal the show and hold the black fruit and leather notes hostage on the tongue.  Hard to cozy up to this one as it presents young and a touch out of balance.  This brunello will need some time to try and dig itself out of a hole.

Cupano Brunello di Montalcino 2006     92/100
A beautiful combination of earth tones, black fruit aromas, and baking spice hints on the nose makes for immediate interest.  Then the show starts as the meat and boatload of concentrated black flavors swarm the palate and camp out.  The finish has a hint of green tannin, probably from oak aging, but my sense tells me they will most certainly melt away and provide a bell ringer of a wine.  This is serious hooch that will most certainly capture the imagination of the international press and even more importantly drinkers of brunello di montalcino.  This is happening wine!

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
An immediately appealing cherry berry nose will play well to the audience.  There’s no disappointment in the mouth as the concentrated red cherry and baked apple flavors ride the flume perfectly with the well formed nervous system that supports this spinner.  A youthful wine comfortable in its skin, this is a traditionalist’s prototype that will find favor at the table as well as in the cellar for 5-6 years where it will only hone its well versed conversation.  Bravo!

Castiglione del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2006     91/100
Oooh! Mushrooms combine with dark cherry on the nose to bring you a seductive array of aromas that only continue to seduce the longer I keep my nos ein the glass.  Textbook example of brunello di montalcino “da una volta” where perfectly ripened strawberry, dark cherry fruit is proudly on display on the palate, intertwining perfectly with leather and whispers of sottobosco.  This is one to seek out to see what brunello is all about!

Cantina del Montalcino Brunello di Montalcino 2006     84/100
A muted nose shows barely enough cherry and herbal notes to keep my attention but the wine trips over the tannins that refuse to get off stage and let the fruit say a few words.  The wine’s youth is getting in the way here and it will be interesting to see if this brunello can evolve enough to save its own hide.  Tobacco notes on the finish are interesting but not really enough to totally save the day here.

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2006     84/100
Cream soda, leather, chocolate, and dark cherry combine on the nose to create some excitement.  On the palate there’s a well formed core of red and black berryfruit to take a stand against the grippy tannins that are stubborn to let go.  But the tannins are slow to walk away and leave me wanting more from this wine.     Well constructed but underdeveloped.

Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2006     84/100
It’s almost enough enjoyment to let the creamy nose of ripe black cherry and cola go on for seconds before the massively tannic beast hits the palate and tries to beat it into submission.  The blackberry and leather fruit core is there but it seems the tannins are hellbent on outstaying their welcome and bullying the wine into backing down.

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
Evolved nose that shows plenty of appeal, proudly displaying a gang of blue and blackberry coupled with chocolate and dark macerated cherry.  Gorgeous attack of dark fruits dance awkwardly right now with the well integrated tannins and vibrant acid that brace the wine’s spine but in time will be in-step and make for a cellar worthy effort.

Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2006     85/100
A spicy nose, complete with cinnamon and nutmeg leading the way over aromas of wild strawberry, leads to a palate full of ripe strawberry and marzipan.  A long finish gives me something more to think about but in the end this is a simple effort that is made correctly if a tad unexciting.

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2006     86/100
Plush is the word that comes to mind when I dip my nose into this den of tanned leather, black cherry, and chocolate wrapped in a new oak robe.  It also speaks to the mouth feel as the open flavors of dark plum and leather coat the palate from start to finish.  This brunello reads like and open book and will find more favor accompanied by food than in a solo setting.

Baricci Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
Herb, deep woods, and red fruit collide on the nose bringing you a restrained and rather austere nose.  Bright yet fully ripe red fruit marries well with chewy tannins and a very supportive nervous system to make for very good early drinking but enough punch is in the brunello’s DNA to make it a pleaser at the table or 4-5 years of cellar sleep.

Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
Wild aromas of manure, cold steel, and spicy crabapple make the nose most interesting and the attack will appeal to the new school camp as the new oak flavors have yet to escort the densely wound blackberry fruit and leather notes all the way to the alter.  A modernly styled brunello that will find followers and allow them to cellar this pup for 6-8 years without pause.

Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2006     85/100
Cola and bright red cherry aromas make the nose stand up.  The palate is attacked with blackberry and sottobosco, well defined, and shows skillful winemaking trying to balance the structural components that are all equally matched.  This has enough rustic character to make a name for itself at the table with some fairly hearty fare.  A pretty straightforward and simple brunello.

Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
Hints of earth combine with leather and ripe red cherry on the nose.  Pencil lead and mineral notes show favor on the attack with chewy tannnis well integrated into the black fruit and peach flavors that lurk in the shadows of the palate.  This is a brunello with personality and no fear of proudly displaying it.

Villa Le Prata Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
Earth and pencil lead combine deftly with dark cherry and salt water taffy aromas on the nose.  Fine balance on display on the attack as the red cherry and tree bark flavors make things happen and hold the wine’s structure in check and proudly display it from start to finish.  An approachable brunello that will easily find favor at the table and make a roast chicken or other poultry dish sing proudly.

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
A profoundly seductive nose of bright cherry cough drops combine with herbal bits on the nose but the real show is in the mouth where red fruit, dominated by wild raspberry and strawberry swarms and coats the palate with precision and leaves a ripe finish that lingers on refreshingly.  A highly perfumed wine that shows elegance and a rustic component while maintaining a high degree of traditional character.  I like this at the table or as a solo effort in 3-4 years.

Centolani-Friggaili e Pietranera Brunello di Montalcino 2006      86/100
A dense yet inviting nose full of dark berryfruits is sure to delight.  On the palate the wine comes across as one dimensional but the solid core of strawberry and sottobosco that camp-out on the palate is most comfortable within the confines of this brunello’s compact frame.  Will probably show more in a few years but a solid effort indeed.

Agostini Pieri Brunello di Montalcino 2006     86/100
Straightshooter nose displays chocolate and ripe red cherry with whispers of tropical fruits.  On the palate there’s plenty of well ripened and balanced red and black berryfruit to combat the tannic underlying structure that plays hard underneath.  Simply styled I’d put this with a poultry dish over the next 3-4 years to let the wine’s spicy qualities make fine conversation with the food.

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2006      85/100
A rather muted nose barely exhibits sottobosco and leather aromas while on the palate you get one shot at the black pepper and meaty blackberry flavors that go hand in hand with the tannic underwear the wine sports.  This will need some pretty big game at the table to try and tame the uber grippy tannins that have this wine on lock.

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino 2006      87/100
Red candy aromas leap from the glass and lead you into a traditionally styled yet quite appealing effort on the palate.  Red fruit leads the way while black tea and tobacco notes tend to lurk around for the after party.  A solid wine that will find favor at the table with wild game as well as after a few years of aging in the cellar.  A traditionally styled wine that after doing 4-6 years of cellar time will allow it to sing a fuller aria as opposed to just hitting the middle tones.

Vitanza Brunello di Montalcino 2006     86/100
A roasted red cherry and worn leather nose brings a traditionally styled nose which leads to a big time black pepper and dark cherry attack on the palate that rides away gracefully on a firmly wrapped, finely tuned spine.  Simple and well made.

Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
Dusty floral notes and bright red cherry notes make the nose take note.  A long and poenetrating burst of red fruit blows up the palate and more than holds your attention as the grippy tannins keep chase with this solidly put together brunello.  This is textbook brunello that will excel at the table in its youth and most certainly provide for pensive drinking in 5-6 years.

Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2006     84/100
Open and floral aromas mix with wild strawberry to offer up a lightly styled effort on the nose while the tannins take control on the palate giveing the red fruit structure all it can handle on the palate.  The tannins have taken control of the situation here and it appears that braised poultry may be able to help this wine better express itself.

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2006     89/100
Ripe apples and cranberries try to play shy on the nose but it’s clear that a gang of activity lies underneath.  As I suspected a cinnamon and penetrating red and black cherry bonanza plays a long set right in the middle of the palate and lets you enjoy the show for minutes on end.  A spicy heavyweight of a wine that is not afraid to display its well balanced heft with pride.

Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2006     86/100
Baked red apple, earth tones, and baking spice do their thing on the nose while the mouth is well introduced to a firmly wrapped display red currant and sottobosco that gives you plenty to chew on.  This is a brunello that will clearly shine with the right substantial fare or from a 5 year stint in the cellar.

Tornesi Brunello di Montalcino 2006     86/100
A dense, tightly wound nose of dry leaf and dark fruits leaves me wondering what is underneath.  Dried flowers meet red apple and strawberry on the palate to give you a forward, straightshooter that will most certainly excel at the table to allow the acids to relate and the tannins to find a friend or two.

Tenuta di Sesta Brunello di Montalcino 2006     89/100
An ample nose of baked cherry pie, hints of earth, and smoke makes its way into your mind on the nose  but the show stealer is on the palate where the concentration of ripe fruit brags loud and clear about its balance and pentrating flavors of black cherry extract and red plum flavors.  A wonderful example of a perfectly balanced heavyweight that relies on its balance and finesse to charm as opposed to heft and brute force.

San Giorgio Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
A traditional nose gives way to wet leaf, red zinger tea, and red cherry.  The palate gets riddled with dancing ripe cherry and crabapple that blend elegantly with the bright acids and chewy tannins that frame this solid and prototypically styled brunello.  A solid example of traditional brunello that has more than enough charm to sing solos in a few years or match up against fine fare with an hour decant.

Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
A rather muted nose gives me little to work with on the nose but there’s a floral piece on the palate that you will not soon forget that makes this wine sing.  This brunello will get pigeonholed into being “light” but there’s stuffing here that works a heavy load of lighter tones of fruit.  An elegant wine that will hold its own at the table and benefit from 3-4 years of aging.

Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
Roasted red apple and cherry compote throw a big party on the nose and the mouth is dominated by sottobosco and well formed blackberry and leather tones.  A solidly framed straightshooter whose blackberry and freshly cracked black pepper fest in the mouth will give a go to a grilled steak or self meditate nicely over a 4-5 year passage in the cellar.  A fine wine that shows an exceptional purity of fruit.

Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino 2006     91/100
Roasted cranberry, walnut, and leather aromas make for a fine nose while in the mouth the mildly tannic cloak is being carried by a gangload of blackberry, leather, tobacco, and currant flavors that penetrate the tongue and stay for the afterparty.  This is a complete wine that merits attention and will most certainly find friends internationally.  A real humdinger that will charm a charred steak in a heartbeat while still maintainng its balanced integrity.

La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
A long and penetrating nose of smoky sottobosco, pomegranate, and charred ripe apples frames an attack of surprisingly pit fruit and strawberry on the palate which is framed nicely by a balanced escort of vibrant acids and chewy tannins.  This is a hands off brunello where the winemaker simply allowed the land to make the wine without to much fuss or intervention.  At the table the wine will excel further giving it a chance to give the tannins something to play with as will a good 4-6 year sleep in the cellar.

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
An open and welcoming basked red apple and blackberry nose gives it a go on the nose while on the palate an ultra concentrated and focused attack of black fruit holds the palate hostage but treats it with care.  This is a wine that makes no qualms about throwing itself at you but shows just enough restraint to not get itself into complete trouble.  A racy wine that shows you all the goods but with care.

Tenuta Crocedimezzo Brunello di Montalcino 2006     83/100
Understated but traditional nose or herbs and unripe strawberry shows you enough to let you know brunello is coming but on the palate the vibrancy is muted and the sour cherry and floral flavors sing a touch off-key while the tannins reach back for a jab on the way out the door.  A bit disjointed.

Solaria Brunello di Montalcino 2006     89/100
Baked cherry and rhubarb pie, complete with hints of burnt crust, is what you get on the nose.  The palate gets coated in a well formed structure accented by deep flavors of red cherry and bitter cocoa.  This is a traditionally crafted brunello that shows deft winemaking and a solid handling of fruit and will continue to improve and show more of its stuff over the next 4-5 years.

Tenimenti Angelini Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
An evenly balanced nose of leather, cocoa, and black pepper collides with blueberry and chocolate aromas which combine with a firmly tannic grip on the palate but still proves to be a valiant effort that will only improve served with a braised game dish or after several years of cellaring.  A solid effort there’s plenty to latch onto here but the real treat will be at the table so that the wine can fully express its complexity.

Tassi Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
Plum combines with smoked red cherry and winks of leather on the nose where the focused pary continues on the palate where tobacco rules the day.  This is a personal favorite where rustic charm meets vibrant red fruit to present a classicly styled spinner that will improve over time but is not so weighty that you’ll need a decade or a braised wildabeest to appreciate it.

San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino 2006     86/100
Smoked wood and dried cherry frame the nose while the palate offers a concentrated attack of black berryfruit and leather notes.  Firm yet fair tannins ensure this brunello will stay around for a while but if anything it lacks excitement, playing larger than its inherent fruit actually allows.

San Polo Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
Concentrated red cherry brings a welcome weight to the nose but the chocolate and dark forest fruits that frame the palate are to be commended for their ability to charm the tannins and follow through from start to finish.  A fine wine indeed that will make for nice conversation at the table while playing nicely with the proper fare of braised poultry or grilled meats.

Sesta di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2006     88/100
A round nose of menthol, chocolate, and baked cherries clearly gets my attention and the solid frame underneath commands your respect as the black tea and cherry tones lead the way on the palate.  The wine’s solid core of fruit balanced nicely with firm but fair tannins and exacting acids turns the head and 4-5 years in the cellar will allow this wine to make friends over conversation or at the table even sooner.

Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino 2006     87/100
Strawberry combines with pencil lead on the nose with plum playing a supporting role.  The flavors in the mouth are gorgeous as they go frm dried flowers to peaches to darker black cherry and tea flavors on the finish of the palate.  Complexity will continue to grow as this wine ages but there’s immediate  appeal present especially if you give it 2-3 years to unleash its full plume.

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino 2006     85/100
An earth driven nose gives way to a mineral and dried cherry attack where there’s plenty of sumptuous fruit to hold your attention.  A simple wine that may gain interesting notes in time but will be fine with a grilled filet in the short term.

Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2006     86/100
Sour cherry nose combines with leather and herbal notes to provide a peculiar nose.  On the palate the wine is young, vibrant and perhaps slightly undeveloped and will need time to prove it has what it takes to make for entertaining drinking but the leather and dark cherry tones prove their worth.

Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino 2006     89/100
An eccentric nose of truffles, meat, mushroom, and black cherry form the nose but the sweet shock of fruit that frames the wine’s core on the palate is substantial and merits your immedite attention.  Fine structure and exellent grip make this a fine candidate for the cellar or at a grilled meat festival.  Very well done.

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Albarossa: The New Kid on the Block

Why the Albarossa clone, a cross between barbera and nebbiolo, lay dormant from 1938 until 2002 is a mystery to me but thankfully four Piedmontese producers decided to resurrect the hybrid and make a go of it.  Pleasantly surprised, Vigne Regali’s version shows serious promise as a wine that could potentially garner new fans very quickly.  All the upfront and sappy plum and strawberry fruit you’ve come to expect from barbera, complete with its giddy nervous system, combines like a dream on the nose while nebbiolo’s slightly bitter tannins dance around the blackberry and concentrated blueberry flavors on the palate.  88/100   

Although barbera-nebbiolo blends have been crafted successfully for decades in Piedmont (given barbera’s natural lacks of tannin and nebbiolo’s naturally lacking acidity), many have lacked a seamless integration and have gotten overzealous with the use of barrique.  This is a surprisingly elegant wine whose nebbiolo side asks for a seat at the dinner table while the barbera side charms you instantly with blackberry and spicy red berry fruit layers woven into a velvety finish.  Excellent wine and a varietal to keep your eye on.  The bad news is that there less than 5 acres planted to the varietal thus far.  I’m sure that may change given the results in the bottle.

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Croce di Febo

Croce di Febo   Vino Nobile di Montepulciano  2008      90/100                                                                                           

Croce di Febo

An amazing transformation has taken place in a scant 12 months from this relative newcomer’s estate run by the very capable Maurizio Comitini.  The 2008 vino nobile offers a bright and inviting nose of red cherry and blueberry aromas showing typicity and charm while in the mouth the wine continues its festive ways as the black pepper and blackberry flavors combine beautifully in a middle weight contender that stands out among its peers.  A huge qualitative leap over the winery’s 2007 vino nobile.  100% organically made and bottled unfiltered.

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